Judas, Do You Betray Me With An Orange Julius? More Tourism in the Lesser Washington

Ask me how I spend my days in D.C. and I’d probably reply: I go to school, come home, drink a beer, watch MSNBC until I grow tired of Chris Matthews shouting at me, go to bed. Repeat the next day. But as I look back on my phone’s photo roll, I find proof that I did occasionally deviate from this depressing routine. Perhaps some demon right outside my window drove me away? Jefferson Davis Highway Speaking of traitors to the United States of America, the original Robert E. Lee estate that’s now Arlington National Cemetery is quite close but the house and much of the cemetery landscape is under renovation and inaccessible to the public so I only made a quick stop to see some of the graves of kick ass Supreme Court Justices. Dunno why the Supreme Court was on my mind. While now isn’t the best time to visit the cemetery, metro-ing into D.C. is easy and I luckily have friends and family who either live here or who visited and coaxed me out into the wider world. Courtney and I checked out the Newseum (awesome collection of original newspapers!) and when Marie visited we stopped by the National Museum of Women in the Arts.

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I didn’t always need friends to lure me outside as a few of my classes included field trips. Not just to the CIA, but also to State Department specific spots. First, the Diplomatic Reception Rooms, kind of an odd duck among D.C. sights. You don’t enter through an imposing 18th or 19th century edifice. Instead you’re in the 1939 Harry S Truman Building, complete with a WPA mural. But go upstairs and you’ll find yourself in a place that looks (and, weirdly, smells?) like a post colonial mansion. As our tour guide explained, decorating these rooms began in the 1960s when folks got tired of how the U.S. was always upstaged by other countries with their fancy palaces and reception halls. So they raised private funding (hey! Your tax dollars not at work) and created these rooms to showcase early Americana. At the “no photos allowed” (boo!) National Archives, we were supposed to be on the lookout for State Department documents filed using the system we learned in OMS class. It also houses originals of The Declaration of Independence, The U.S. Constitution, and The Bill of Rights. But I found something better: a signed receipt for Charles Ingalls’s payment on his Dakota Territory homestead!!!!! Curses be rained upon whoever decided on the ‘no pics’ policy. Fortunately, there’s no such policy at the Library of Congress. The LOC is connected by underground tunnel to the Capitol. I did a tour there too but not the kind you arrange ahead with your congressperson to get into chambers. The one I took was very basic and very crowded, so while the guide was knowledgeable and I was happy to see the rotunda and and all the statues, I wouldn’t rush back unless I had a more comprehensive look-see. The hottest ticket in town? Two years after opening, it is still serious business to get into the National Museum of African American History and Culture. When I first got here (July) they were taking reservations for December. However, they do some weekday walk-ins and limited same day tickets are released each morning at 6:30. Some of the content is obviously very heavy (I saw more than one person in tears) but there is also a lot of celebration and a lot of history that wasn’t taught in my schools, including the economics of slavery and the frequency of revolts (more than Nat Turner!). I also appreciated the museum as an answer to some of the feelings I’d been feeling after visiting the above-mentioned monuments to American greatness. Especially at the National Archives, where I stood in front of the founding documents, I got a little emotional thinking about promises vs. reality. The African American museum can’t solve those jarring inconsistencies, but it does confront them. “All men are created equal” is emblazoned on a wall in a large gallery. Underneath is a statue of Thomas Jefferson, positioned in front of a brick wall where you can read the names of many of the 609 people held in slavery by our third president over the course of his lifetime. Enough of the heavy stuff. Let’s be real about the sights I was most interested in. It’s all about the scandals! I went to the pizzagate restaurant… and to Le Diplomate, featured in WaPo’s list of top abuses of power regarding former EPA administrator Scott Pruitt and the parking garage where Deep Throat met with Woodward and Bernstein… and to Watergate (fun fact: Shanna made the restaurant reservations and told us that the hold “music” consists of Nixon speeches). But by far my most exciting discovery was courtesy of the podcast Slow Burn, about events leading to Clinton’s impeachment. One Saturday afternoon while running errands near my ho-partment, I realized that the places being described to me through my earbuds were in the very neighborhood I was walking through! Ladies and gentlemen, I give you the 1998 Garden of Gethsemane…the mall food court where Linda Tripp turned Monica Lewinksy over to the FBI. Till next time D.C. I’m Kazakhstan bound!

The CIA Has A Gift Shop: Tourism in the Lesser Washington

IMG_2046I’ve now spent two months in Washington D.C. preparing to embark on my first assignment.

Do I love the company town energy? The religious devotion to ties and blazers? The way in which the inside and outside temperatures are completely divorced from each other? Not so much. I remain a west coast loyalist.

But I can acknowledge that D.C. has interesting sights to see, what with being the nation’s capitol and all.

While I’ve been in training and on a short leash, I have nonetheless gotten to see several places of note.

When I came here in December for the oral assessment, it was actually the first time I’d ever been a tourist in D.C. Before, I’d been here before for meetings and marches with little time for sightseeing. This past December was the first time I could enjoy time to walk around the National Mall and see the Lincoln Memorial.

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Our first Republican president. Quite a legacy to live up to. I wonder how that’s working out.

Lincoln is awesome and all, but the highlight of my winter visit was the Renwick Gallery’s exhibit featuring crime scene dioramas by Frances Glessner Lee. I love a murder mystery!

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While that particular exhibit has since ended, the great thing about D.C. is how many of the museums are free to explore. So we also popped into the National Gallery, home of a Lucretia by Rembrandt that pairs beautifully with my favorite back in the Minneapolis Institute of Art (psst…the Minneapolis one is better).

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Fast forward to the summer. My sister Colleen planned a visit for our nephew Zeke well before I got the invitation to come to D.C. myself. Sidenote: as much as the timing of this whole process has been insane (I had three and a half weeks notice to pack up life and move across the country), it was also fortuitous in many ways, coming just after my trip to Belize with Keara, right before my lease was up, and coinciding with Zeke’s visit.

Colleen and Shanna kept him to a busy schedule of sightseeing but the Foreign Service Institute had me on an even busier schedule so I wasn’t able to accompany them on all the adventures. I did manage the Air and Space Museum and Ford’s Theater.

 

I did not accompany them to the International Spy Museum but guess what I did get to see? The CIA’s own museum in Langley! Not for your everyday tourists. It was arranged via a class field trip requiring we all have a special badge and leave our phones and all other electronic devices in the school bus. This was a very sad moment for me. When everyone put their electronic car key beep-beeps into a bag and not a single one of my classmates made a joke about 1970s key parties…well, I’ve never felt more alone.

No pictures inside the CIA’s Langley HQ, but I can tell you I saw some stuff straight out of James Bond and Get Smart. And I did come home with a couple of souvenirs. Because the CIA has a gift shop.