The Republic of Georgia (known as Sakartvelo/საქართველო to locals) has been on my mind for what feels like forever.
When I first dipped my toes into the world of former Soviet Republics I remember hearing a vague buzz about how Georgia was the former SSR to beat. But it was while in Kazakhstan I really learned what an out-sized reputation this tiny country has within the former soviet sphere.
Stalin was born there and his Bolshevik comrades made generous use of Georgia’s food, wine, mineral water, spas, mountains, and Black Sea coast. Although the USSR is no more (despite Putin’s best efforts), you can find a lot of love for Georgia in the former republics. When I lived in Almaty, I saw Georgian restaurants everywhere. Georgian wine, Borjomi mineral water, and bright green, ostensibly tarragon flavored “Tarhun” soda took up serious shelf space in the grocery stores. Most importantly, there were nonstop flights available between Tbilisi and Almaty, making it practically obligatory to take a mini-break there.
Once a secret delight hidden behind the iron curtain, Georgia is now regularly luring western European tourists with their amazing food, wine, history, and natural beauty. Even Americans are starting to take notice. Which is how, back in early 2020, I managed to convince American friends to meet me there.
And then…
But dammit, I couldn’t just toss my Lonely Planet Caucuses into the garbage. Instead, I spent the next three years plotting a redo. When I landed in my current post with its special incentives (a free R&R ticket + extra vacation days) I decided to at least broach the subject of getting the band back together for Georgia redux. In a delightful turn of events, they were game.
Of course, since Uncle Sam was buying my ticket I had to wait for the party that runs (a chunk of) our government but doesn’t believe in the government to fund the government before I could get my ticket. But now, a Christmas miracle! I am in possession of a ticket courtesy of the U.S. taxpayer.
The trip isn’t until March and yes, the superstitious part of me worries that publishing my intentions on the internet is a sure fire way to jinx the whole enterprise, but I am also so excited that I can’t help myself.
So how do I while away the days until then?
There’s supporting the local economy of course. Retail therapy has never been easier than in Pakistan. A last minute ticket to “embassy prom” (aka the Marine Ball) meant a last minute purchase of a dress. I talked myself out of a fun necklace at our annual holiday vendor fair, but then when the same vendor with the same necklace showed up at another event, I melted. And I rewarded myself for a successful bidding season with a custom coffee table from one of the community’s favorite furniture makers.
But after my shipment of household effects finally arrived from China, I felt like my apartment was plenty full. So no more shopping!
I’ve also hit up the local options for sightseeing as much as possible, while staying within security guidelines.
Generally that means just going on whatever trip is available, regardless of my level of interest.
Railway museum? Sure!
Golra Sharif Railway museum is also a working train station dating from 1881. The highlight was the pakora and chai stand on the platform.
Hikes in the Margala Hills (technically foothills of the Himalayas and murderously steep in places)? Why not?
But other outings have been to places I’d be interested in visiting even if all of Pakistan was open to me.
The ruined Buddhist monastery of Jaulian (2nd century CE) is near the city of Taxila, which is somehow also famous for making these hideous disco cats.
The Disco Leopards of Taxila
Buddhist monastery of Jaulian
You don’t find a lot of Hindus in Muslim-dominated Pakistan, but there is still an active temple at Katas Raj, where the pond is said to have been created from the teardrops of Shiva, after the death of his wife Sati.
Katas Raj Temple Complex
Then, when a friend I worked with in Guangzhou invited me to visit her in her new post (Bangkok), I decided, why not? I’ve only taken two short trips to Thailand but in my limited experience, you can always count on old Siam to bring the bling.
The Royal Palace and Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha)
Wat Pho, Temple of the (GIANT) Reclining Buddha
My favorite temple, of this visit and perhaps of all Buddhist temples I’ve ever visited (at this point a not insignificant number), was Wat Arun, which is across the river from the royal palace and covered with broken ceramics repurposed into mosaic-like decor. The ultimate in upcycling.
Across the river to Wat Arun
So that’s been me keeping busy-ish in the final months of the year. I’ve got one last trip in 2023 and then I can officially start counting down to Georgia in 2024. I better not have jinxed it!
closely related to Hinduism (so much Ganesh!) and temples are everywhere. You pass dozens just in the old city of Chiang Mai. If you were thinking that Buddhism was free from the sexism of Christianity and Islam though, you should think again.
In Foreign Places 