China’s zero-Covid policy for international arrivals ended January 8th. Also, we had several days off for Lunar New Year January 22nd.
“Siri, what countries don’t celebrate Lunar New Year (i.e. sights are open) and have nonstop flights from Guangzhou?”
Time to take that blue passport out for a spin in Cambodia.
Confusingly, I have two passports. My black dip(lomatic) passport is for official business. As it contains my Chinese visa and grants me some diplomatic privileges within the country, I carry it throughout China even when I am on personal travel. My blue tourist passport…has been sitting unused in a drawer since 2019.
I was apprehensive about venturing into blue passport world. While the threat of involuntary detention in a fever hospital may be over, one still needs a negative test to return to China. Fortunately a colleague of mine also wanted to travel, guaranteeing me company if we both got caught out, or a buddy to send along extra clothes and my Nintendo Switch if only I tested positive.
Siem Reap
We started in Siem Reap, near the Angkor Archeological Park. The park is simply massive, full of temples and sundry remains from the 9th to the 15th century Khmer Empire. Temples were built either as Buddhist or Hindu, many then “retrofitted” (Buddhas chiseled off the walls; Vishnu bas-reliefs obliterated) to accommodate the other faith.
In early days of tourism, when people transited by elephants instead of tuk-tuks, a petite and a grand circuit of the park were established. We did both over two days.
Pre Rup Hindu Temple and Neak Pean Island Buddhist Temple
Preah Khan, originally a Buddhist site with Hindu elements added later
The small but exquisite 10th century Banteay Srei, dedicated to Shiva, was a personal favorite.
At Bayon Temple, piles of stones reveal themselves, on closer examination, to be dozens of faces.
Also at Bayon temple…Monkeys!
Ta Prohm, now known as the “Tomb Raider” Temple.
Of course, the star of the show is Angkor Wat, where we arrived for sunrise.
I confess I wouldn’t call the sunrise visit a must-do. Maybe because I’ve experienced Tikal and the Inca Trail.
Seeing inside Angkor Wat, however, was nothing short of extraordinary. The size, intricacy, and beauty was awe-inspiring.
Templed out, it was time for Phnom Penh where, sadly, the ugliness of modern history is awe-inspiring in a very different way.
We did not visit the Killing Fields, but did spend several hours at S-21, aka the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum. Originally a school, the complex was converted to “Security Prison 21” during the Khmer Rouge regime from 1975-1979. I have been to museums in Budapest and Kazakhstan focused on Nazi and Soviet detention systems. Visiting S-21 is a darker experience even than those. Of between 14,000 and 17,000 prisoners detained, only twelve are thought to have survived.
Still, Cambodia is not defined by its past tragedy. Phnom Penh today is a cheerful, if chaotic, city that offers many markets, an interesting museum, and a royal palace.
Art Deco Central Market and Other Local Markets
Royal Palace Complex
Oh, and food.
Roadside Snack
A Surprising Array of Beer Options
Lost Plate, the tour company that has facilitated most of my China travel, currently has food tours in only three places: China, Oregon, and Cambodia. It turns out my travelling companion is as much of a fan as I am so she suggested we do all three of their Cambodia offerings. As I am what dog trainers call “food motivated,” I was happy to comply.
Love the hyper-local focus of these food tours. In Siem Reap they even took us out to a small village to eat in someone’s home.
Unsurprisingly, we met others on our tours who were a) familiar with Lost Plate from living in China, and b) also testing the waters of travel outside the Middle Kingdom. Plenty of stories to swap as we filled our bellies.
Because the guides they hire are the best, our Phnom Penh breakfast tour guide went above and beyond to help us find the clinic where we could get a Covid test before our return flight. This was the one stress of the trip (made less stressful by our helpful guide). Fortunately, we both tested negative and, “fit to fly” certificates in hand, boarded the plane back to China. After landing we just walked off the plane and out into the open. No quarantines. No health codes to check before leaving the airport. A whole new world!
Long live my blue passport! May it have many more adventures.
Final meal of the trip, gifted to me by my seatmate on the flight back. More or less frightening than the spider?
In Foreign Places 